The Laurent Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 2022 is a perfumed, medium-bodied Pinot Noir from the village of Chambolle-Musigny in Burgundy's Côte de Nuits. Ripe and open-textured for the address, it still keeps the lift and floral character the commune is known for.

Red cherry, raspberry and crushed violet come first, with rose petal, a little wet stone and a faint peppery edge behind. Air brings out something warmer — dark cherry and a hint of forest floor — without tipping into jammy fruit.

The 2022 growing season in the Côte de Nuits was hot and dry, and picking got underway around the very end of August, yet the wine is not heavy: sappy acidity runs through the middle and the tannins are fine-grained and powdery rather than firm. Silky through the mid-palate, it finishes long and savoury, with the fruit fading into spice and dried herbs.

Roast duck, quail with mushrooms, veal, or a simple roast chicken with thyme all work well. Softer washed-rind cheeses and mushroom risotto suit it too. Serve a touch below room temperature, around 15–16°C, to keep the aromatics sharp.

Drinking well now with an hour's air, and the structure to develop through to roughly 2032. The Laurent Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 2022 should be at its best from 2026 onwards, once the fruit settles and the perfume broadens.