The Philippe Collotte Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 2021 is a fine-boned, perfumed village Burgundy built on red fruit and mineral lift rather than muscle. Pinot Noir from the cooler, higher Evocelles lieu-dit, it carries the transparency and energy that marked the best 2021 reds in Gevrey-Chambertin.

Morello cherry, cranberry and a little wild raspberry lead the aroma, edged with crushed stone, dried rose petal and a savoury turn of undergrowth. Air brings out a sappy, faintly peppery character that keeps the fruit from turning sweet.

Medium-bodied and cushioned across the middle, the Collotte Les Evocelles has a fine grain of tannin that frames the fruit without drying it, and a bright acid line running the length of the palate. The finish is long and perfumed, arriving late and lingering on tart red fruit and earth. Two years in bottle have filled out a wine that was reserved early on — 2021 was a frost-hit season in Burgundy, roughly half a normal crop for the domaine, and the resulting wines took their time before showing their charm.

Roast duck, mushroom risotto, coq au vin or a plate of jamón and aged comté all suit. Serve it a touch below room temperature, around 15 to 16 degrees, and give it half an hour open.

Drinking well now and through to about 2032, with the acidity and tannin structure to reward patience over the next five years.