The Philippe Collotte Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 2023 is a savoury, finely drawn Pinot Noir from the high northern edge of Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy, built on dark red fruit and fine tannin rather than bulk. Old vines planted in 1955 sit high above the village on the combe, and the site's altitude shows in the wine's lift and clarity.

Aromatically, Les Evocelles opens on morello cherry and cranberry, with crushed violet, wet stone and a twist of black pepper behind. The palate follows the same line: red-fruited and juicy through the middle, with a faint gaminess and dried orange peel adding interest rather than weight.

Structurally this Gevrey-Chambertin sits in the medium-bodied camp, with acidity holding a clean line from front to back and tannins that are firm but polished, closer to fine emery than grip. The finish is long and mineral, drying just slightly and leaving a savoury, almost bloody note that marks out the cooler, higher reaches of the appellation.

Duck breast with cherries, roast quail, mushroom risotto or a simple herbed roast chicken all work well. Give it a decent glass and half an hour of air, and keep it cool rather than at room temperature.

Drink from 2026 through to around 2035, with the fruit likely at its most generous between 2028 and 2032.