The Philippe Collotte Gevrey-Chambertin 2023 is a village-level Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy, built on dark cherry fruit and a firm, savoury edge rather than sweetness or weight. Medium-bodied and clearly drawn, it has the earthy grip that makes Gevrey-Chambertin recognisable at the first sniff.

Aromatics lean red and black: morello cherry, ripe raspberry, a little crushed violet, then dried thyme, wet stone and a whiff of black tea. The palate follows through with sappy red fruit and a darker plum core, the flavours long and cool-toned rather than plush.

Tannins are fine but present, running as a chalky line beneath the fruit, and acidity keeps everything upright. The 2023 season in Burgundy delivered a generous crop and a genuine heatwave over harvest, which shows here as full, forward fruit ripeness carried on a frame that still finishes dry and mineral, with a faint gamey note lingering.

Pin it to roast duck, veal with mushrooms, coq au vin, or a simple roast chicken with plenty of pan juices. Slow-cooked lamb shoulder works, as does a soft washed-rind cheese once the bottle has been open an hour.

Drinking well from now with an hour of air, and better again from 2027 through to about 2032 as the tannins soften and the earthier, undergrowth characters take over from the primary cherry.