The Philippe Collotte Marsannay Champsalomon 2022 is a supple, mid-weight Pinot Noir from Marsannay at the northern end of Burgundy's Côte de Nuits, built on dark cherry fruit and fine chalky tannin. Champsalomon comes from vines of more than 50 years planted higher on the slope over hard Comblanchien limestone, and the wine carries that stoniness right through.

Aromatically it leads with black cherry and ripe redcurrant, then violets, crushed leaf and a faint whiff of gunflint. The palate is generous without being heavy, the 2022 fruit sweetly ripe at the front and drawing tighter as it goes, with sappy red berry and a savoury, iron-like undertow.

Tannins are fine-grained and slightly grippy, in the way old-vine Marsannay tends to be, and there is enough acid running underneath to keep the wine lively rather than plush. The 2022 season across the Côte de Nuits was warm but not baked, giving good ripeness alongside firm acidity, and Champsalomon shows both: depth of flavour with a clean, mineral, long finish.

Pour it with duck breast, roast chicken and mushrooms, veal, a mushroom and thyme risotto, or a plate of washed-rind cheese. Twenty minutes in a decanter helps at this stage.

Drink now for the fruit, or cellar to 2032 as the tannin softens and the savoury, earthy side of the vineyard comes forward.