The Philippe Collotte Marsannay Champsalomon 2021 is a poised, medium-bodied Pinot Noir from Marsannay at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits in Burgundy. Grown on old vines high on the slope over hard Comblanchien limestone, it leans towards fine-boned red fruit and stony savouriness rather than depth of flesh.

Aromatically it opens on morello cherry, cranberry and rosehip, with hints of crushed leaf, wet stone and a faint peppery lift. The palate follows the same line, red-fruited and clear-edged, with a gentle earthy undertone that builds as the wine sits in the glass.

Structure is the strong point of this Marsannay. The 2021 season in Burgundy was shaped by severe April frost and a cool, drawn-out summer, and that shows here as bright acidity, moderate alcohol and a lighter frame than warmer years deliver. Tannins are fine and slightly chalky, drawing the finish out long and dry rather than plush.

Pair it with roast duck, mushroom risotto, coq au vin or a plate of charcuterie and washed-rind cheese. A twenty-minute decant and a cool cellar temperature both help.

Drink from now through to around 2030, with the mid-window likely the sweet spot as the tannins soften and the savoury notes come forward.