The Picardy Pinot Noir 2023 is a fragrant, medium-bodied red from Pemberton in Western Australia, built on bright red fruit and savoury detail rather than weight. Made from a spread of eleven clones planted on the estate, it carries the finesse Picardy has pursued since its first Pinot Noir in 1996.

Raspberry and morello cherry lead the nose, with rose petal and a faint truffled, forest-floor edge underneath. The palate follows with red cherry and strawberry compote, cracked peppercorn and a savoury, almost olive-like note that keeps the fruit honest.

Fine-grained tannins give the 2023 Pemberton Pinot Noir shape without drying it out, and the acidity runs straight through the middle to lift the finish rather than sharpen it. Texture is silky, the body light to medium, and the length is genuine — the flavour tapers slowly instead of stopping.

Give it half an hour in a decanter if you have the time; the perfume opens considerably.

Approachable now, the Picardy Pinot Noir 2023 has the structure and acid balance to reward cellaring for up to a decade from vintage.