The Famiglia Statella Etna Rosso 2022 is a light-footed red from the volcanic slopes of Etna in Sicily, built on the Nerello grapes that give the mountain its particular style. Think red fruit, fine tannin and a mineral edge rather than Sicilian sunshine and weight.

Aromatically it leans savoury: cranberry and sour cherry, dried thyme, a twist of orange peel and that faint smoky, ashy note that volcanic soils tend to lend. Air brings out something floral, closer to rose petal than violet.

The palate is medium-bodied at most, with bright acidity running the length of it and tannins that feel sandy rather than grippy. Red fruit carries the middle, then the finish turns dry and stony, with a gentle bitter twist of blood orange that keeps you coming back. It has more in common with northern Italian or Burgundian reds than with the heavier wines of southern Italy.

Serve it with a light chill alongside roast pork, mushroom risotto, pasta alla Norma, grilled quail, or a plate of charcuterie and pecorino. It also handles tomato-based dishes better than most reds thanks to that acid line.

Drinking well now and over the next five to seven years, with the structure to settle into something more savoury and earthy from around 2026.