The Château de Coulaine Chinon 2023 is a fresh, medium-bodied Cabernet Franc from Chinon in the Loire Valley, where the variety trades power for perfume and fine-grained tannin. Château de Coulaine has farmed here as a family estate for generations, and the house style leans on lift and detail rather than density.

Aromatically, the wine opens on blackcurrant and dark cherry, with violet, cracked pepper and a thread of liquorice underneath. The palate follows the same line — crunchy red and black fruit, a savoury graphite edge, and the leafy herbal spice that marks good Chinon Cabernet Franc.

Tannins are fine and chalky rather than firm, framing the fruit instead of sitting over it, and the acidity runs straight through the middle of the wine. Texture is silky at first, then gently grippy towards a dry, mineral finish that leaves the mouth clean and asking for another sip.

Roast chicken with thyme, duck breast, lentils and sausage, or a mushroom tart all work well. Chinon's classic partner is goat's cheese, and a fresh chèvre with this 2023 is worth the trouble. A light chill, around 15 degrees, sharpens the aromatics.

Drink now through to about 2031. The Château de Coulaine Chinon 2023 is approachable straight away, though a couple of years in the cellar will soften the tannin and let the savoury, earthy side come forward.