Ministry of Clouds Kintsugi 2020 is a medium-bodied Grenache, Mataro and Shiraz blend from McLaren Vale, made from old dry-grown bush vine parcels chosen for finesse rather than sheer power. Perfumed and savoury, it leans on crunchy red fruit and fine sandy tannin instead of the sweetness and bulk often associated with the region.

Red cherry, raspberry and dried rose come first, with cardamom and five spice sitting behind them. Air brings darker blue fruit and violet from the Mataro and Shiraz components, along with a faint earthy, sun-warmed scrub character.

The palate is long and layered rather than broad, with bright acidity carrying the fruit and persistent grainy tannins framing the finish. Maturation in old puncheons on fine lees has given texture without any obvious oak flavour, and a year in bottle before release has knitted the parts together. It was bottled unfined but filtered.

Roast lamb shoulder with cumin, paprika chicken, chorizo and lentils, or a mushroom and thyme risotto all work well. Decant it an hour ahead and serve slightly cool, around 16 degrees, to keep the perfume in play.

Drinking well now and through to about 2032, with the acid line and tannin structure to reward patient cellaring in the middle of that window.