Torbreck Kyloe Mataro 2022 is a medium to full-bodied Barossa Valley red that leans on savoury, earthy character rather than sheer power. Mataro from the Barossa Valley can be a burly thing, but this 2022 wears its ripeness lightly and stays fresh through to the finish.

Dark plum, mulberry and bramble sit at the front, with the wilder side of the variety close behind — dried herbs, black olive, cured meat and a lick of clove and pepper. The fruit is plump and rounded across the middle palate, though the earthy, almost gamey undertow keeps it from tipping into sweetness.

The 2022 season in the Barossa was remarkably mild, with very few days above thirty degrees and a slow, drawn-out ripening period, and it shows in the wine's brighter acidity and fine-grained tannins. Those tannins are firm but polished, gripping gently at the edges and carrying a dry, spicy finish. Colour is deep, weight is generous, but the whole thing moves rather than sits.

Serve at around 16 degrees and give it half an hour in a decanter. It suits slow-cooked lamb shoulder, a beef and red wine pie, chargrilled sausages with lentils, or a plate of jamón and hard cheese.

Drinking well now and through to roughly 2032, with the acid line and tannin to hold the middle of that range comfortably.