Château Franc-Maillet Pomerol 2020 is a Merlot-led red from the Pomerol sub-region of Bordeaux, grown in the hamlet of Maillet on the appellation's eastern side and blended with Cabernet Franc. It is a firm, savoury style rather than a plush one, with dark fruit held in check by a real tannic frame.

Dark cherry and damson lead the aroma, with iron filings, dried tobacco leaf and a trace of violet behind them. The palate follows the nose closely: black plum and cassis, then something earthier and more mineral through the middle.

Tannins arrive early and stay firm, fine-grained but gripping, and they carry a faint saline bitterness that lengthens the finish rather than drying it. Acidity is well judged for a warm, dry summer — 2020 in Pomerol leaned on deep clay soils to hold moisture through the drought, and the wine shows that balance of ripeness and freshness rather than any sense of overripe weight. Medium-bodied, compact and a little rustic in the best sense.

Roast duck, braised beef cheek or a mushroom and thyme pie all work well, as does a plate of hard sheep's milk cheese. Decanting an hour ahead helps the fruit come forward against the tannin.

Drink from 2026 through to around 2040, with time in a decanter if you open a bottle sooner.