The Massena Seppeltsfield Grenache 2020 is a perfumed, medium-bodied Grenache from the Seppeltsfield sub-region of the Barossa Valley, built on bright red fruit rather than sheer power. Made without fining or filtration, it has the lift and transparency that Grenache from this western edge of the valley does so well.

Raspberry and cranberry lead the aromatics, with violet, dried thyme and a faint turn of orange peel behind them. The palate follows with plum, wild berry and morello cherry, more juicy than jammy, and a savoury edge that keeps the fruit honest.

Fermented in open stainless steel after destemming and pumped over twice daily for ten days, then matured for twenty months in seasoned 600-litre thick-stave French oak casks, this Grenache carries fine, slightly grippy tannin and a smooth mid-palate. Acidity runs clean through the middle, and the finish is dry, gently spiced and longer than the weight of the wine suggests.

Pour it with slow-roasted lamb shoulder, duck ragu, grilled quail or a mushroom and thyme risotto. Half an hour in a decanter suits it, and a light chill on a warm evening does no harm at all.

Drinking well now and through to around 2030, with the fruit likely to turn more savoury and dried-herb in character from about 2027 onwards.