Domaine Metrat's Chiroubles La Scandaleuse 2023 comes from 60 to 80-plus-year-old vines on a steep, south-facing section of the appellation, giving a touch more ripeness than the domaine's Constance bottling from the same vintage.

Red cherry, dark berry and violet lead the nose, with a slightly riper, more generous edge than a typical Chiroubles. On the palate it's supple and fresh, with fine tannin from the old vines and good acidity, finishing with a lingering floral note.

The south-facing exposure and low-yielding old vines give real concentration while Chiroubles' natural elegance still comes through.

Pour it lightly chilled with charcuterie, roast duck, or a mushroom risotto. It also suits richer bistro dishes than a lighter cru would.

Drinking well now and through to around 2029.