Eric Bordelet Pomme Perlant NV is a non-alcoholic sparkling apple juice from Normandy, made from a blend of heirloom apple varieties grown at Charchigné. Gently pétillant rather than fizzy, it has the shape and seriousness of a dry cider without the alcohol.

The aroma runs to freshly cut red apple, quince and apple skin, with a lift of white blossom and a faint bruised-pear sweetness behind. Those aromas carry straight onto the palate, where the fruit is concentrated and juicy but never syrupy.

What sets Pomme Perlant apart from ordinary apple juice is the grip: tart acidity down the middle, a light bitter edge from the old bittersweet varieties, and a fine bead that scrubs the palate clean. The finish is dry-tasting and long, closing on tannin and orchard fruit rather than sugar.

Pour it with breakfast, with roast pork and apple sauce, with pork rillettes or a plate of charcuterie and washed-rind cheese. It also earns its place at the table for anyone not drinking, since it stands up to food in a way soft drinks and sparkling water cannot.

Drink Eric Bordelet Pomme Perlant now, well chilled, and keep opened bottles in the fridge for a day or two at most while the sparkle holds.