Papa Salt Coastal Gin is an easygoing Australian gin made in New South Wales, built around a soft, savoury-citrus character rather than a big juniper hit. It is the sort of gin that suits a long drink on a warm afternoon, and it has enough texture to hold its own in a martini if that is more your speed.

The nose leans bright and green: lemon and grapefruit peel first, then juniper sitting a step behind, with a faint sea-breeze saltiness and something herbal and garden-like underneath. The palate follows through with citrus pith and a gentle sweetness, a touch of coriander-seed warmth, and a clean mineral edge that gives the whole thing a coastal feel.

Texture is the strong point here — rounded and slightly oily across the tongue rather than sharp or spirity. Spice builds mid-palate without ever turning hot, and the finish is dry, lightly saline and shorter than most, which keeps it refreshing across a session.

Pour it over plenty of ice with a good dry tonic and a wedge of pink grapefruit, or shake it into a gimlet. It works beautifully alongside oysters, grilled prawns, whitebait or a plate of salty bar snacks.