Friday Tasting: Xinomavro - Greece's answer to Nebbiolo

Apostolos Thymiopoulos has almost single-handedly put Naoussa and Xinomavro back on the map — transforming a grape variety once dismissed for its fierce tannins and difficult personality into something the wine world is now clamouring for. Sarah Jane Evans of Decanter described his achievement as "exceptional," noting how he has propelled the hitherto relatively obscure region of Naoussa and its formerly unloved grape to success in global markets.

The Young Vines is where most people fall for his wines first — and it's easy to see why.

Produced entirely from young, non-irrigated vines grown across higher-altitude parcels around Fytia and warmer lower-elevation vineyards near Trilofos, rooted in a complex mixture of schist, granite and limestone. The 2024 is fermented naturally, aged in concrete and large old oak, with minimal intervention — Apostolos is all about letting the fruit and place do the talking.

In the glass it's bright and immediately inviting — crunchy red cherry, wild cranberry and ripe strawberry, layered with fresh garden herbs, dried rose petals and a touch of sun-dried tomato. The palate is crisp and mouthwatering, medium-bodied and silky, with an intensity of red fruit that never feels heavy.

Think of it as the Pinot Noir x Nebbiolo lovechild of Greece — fragrant, food-friendly, high in acidity and endlessly drinkable. Serve it with a slight chill and watch people reach for another glass without quite knowing why.

94 points, Decanter — "Incredible value, and a brilliant introduction to the Xinomavro grape."